Monday, 29 March 2010

Do you speek sinhalese?



After a week and a bit on the coast we had to head back to Colombo to pick up our fat-new Indian visas. Leaving Sri Lanka wasn't easy because the place gave us sooo many beautiful moments, but time was up to fly back to Chennai and get up to the 2010 Kumba Mela.












If you want your neighbor to move out quick-snap, come to us and we'll hook you up with the necessary sound devices to raise hell :-)













The backwaters are real quiet with an amazing diversity of wild-life.











Don't worry, I will personaly look after your bagpack untill you go shopping. But only if you grant me with a new school-pen!!













Twisted...











A moment of devotion in an all female convent.












Some of the stronger built houses however survived and now are giving a testimony of glorious times of the fifties and sixties when most of these villas have been built in lovely modernist style.












The people are still recovering from the big tsunami that devostated most of the coastal areas. This is an old Toddy-Tapper standing on the remains of the old family home. Now there is no family and no home.










We managed to squat a whole island near by a posh beach village. Here is the negative of Gabri, in Crusoe style solitude.












These are tipical outrigger boats in Lanka. The fisherman spend long days and nights in them out on the sea.











But if you find a giant cactus like this one here, your shady accomodation is solved.













Here given that we are real close to the equator, the sun is unbearably hot. The locals walk around with umbrellas during the day.











We are making delicious food out of wet sand. And with a good handful of this we would like to wellcome you on the south coast of Sri Lanka.

Tuesday, 23 March 2010

Sri Lanka; the land of elephants.



These island people don't drink too often but when they do, they make sure they do a proper job of it. The national booze called Arak, a strong water colored alcohol made from toddy which is the fermented sap of the coconut tree. This here is a local pub. These dudes around the table aren't sitting by choice, but because they couldn't manage to stand. Woooow...







In Lanka people don't only ride the train, but even when there isn't one they use the tracks as roads. Here a young mother is taking her son to school. Where else... on the tracks.











The woodlands around Ella have some beautiful sceenic views. We camped in these forests for about a week after which it was even weird to get back into "civilization".











This is a waterfall by the town of Ella way up in the mountains. Camping by it is really loud, but in the morning the power-shower does wake u up :-)


















Thanx to the early Portuguese, Duch and British "visitors" Cristianity is quite popular in some parts of the island.




















Most of the local kids on the tea plantations don't really have shoes or any kind of footwear. Of course there are some exceptions to the rule. Here is one.












Most of the Sri Lankans drink their tea black, with some sugar. The tea you find even in the cheapest shops is real delicious.
However the Indian style milk tea is available as well. Here is the white stuff wholeheartedly recommended by this young milk-man.


















Hey you... whacca doin' in the bushes?!




















There is so much tea to weigh...












After each full bag they walk to the assembly point where the loot is weighted and examined. This estate only produced green tea, so it was real fun to make fire in the evening and try to roast and boil some freshly picked leafs right from the source. The outcome was questionable. It tasted like a weak green tea. (according to Gabri: VERY weak.)


















Watching the ladies picking tea is nice, but I guess doing the picking isn't as pleasant. They put a big bag over their forehead that hangs down on their backs. This is what they fill with the young top leafs. A full bag does give a considerable strain on the neck muscles.












We have been sincerely welcommed again by the good Tamils and stayed on this little plateau in the middle of the Tea estate for quite a few days.












We got to the hearth of the island where up in the mountains the landscape is dominated by tea plantations. Here most of the workers have been brought from south India, so we again found lots of Tamils. Such as this group of kids on their way home from a Tamil primary school.









The highland trains of Lanka are real classic looking wooden trains that look like something straight out of a spaghetti-western. Painted wooden seats, no windows etc. The stations are also old school. This one here is a lovely old schedule board that is just nice to look at even if you aren't taking a train.







This one is a nice carved statute that we've found in a Hindu temple around Dambulla. The hindu population of the island is mainly on the north around the Jaffna peninsula and in the highlands of the centre, working on the tea plantations. Thank to these good Tamil people, hindu art is manifesting it's beauty as we can see.
















When one stands up here on the top of this rock, all he can hear is the sounds of the Sri Lankan jungle with it's millions of inhabitants from the animal kingdom. This is a time travel, because this sound is the same that people must have heard hundreds of years ago standing up on the rock.







This huge rock in the middle of the northern jungle is called Sigiriya. On top of it the ruins of the King Kassapa palace. The whole thing is surrounded by a huge network of beautiful gardens and water reservoirs.












This one I don't know much about, we just chanced upon it in the jungle. I hope I will look like this at the age of hundred and twenthy 'though :-))











Buddha statues are everywhere. They are usually display the Buddha in teaching position, or at the moment of his death (the final one). This huge one at the entrance of a hidden cave is the latter.











This here is the dramatic entrance of the Golden temple in Dambulla. There are countless cave temples around the whole area dating back to about 700 BC.











In Lanka if you own a rikshaw, you aren't necesarily a rickshaw driver. People also use it as a family car. So lots of them are real nicely done up.








This is Anuradapura, the old Capital of the early kingdom, also one of the most important buddhist pilgrimage sites. This one here is a gigantic Stupa built real skillfuly.











The biggest percentage of the island's population is Buddhist, and not only that, but after the followers of Buddha got expelled from India , Sri Lanka became one of the main strongholds of Buddhism.










So guys, we ran out of visa at last (it seemed like a week) so we had to hopp on the evil iron-bird and come over to the island of Sri Lanka earlyer refered to as Ceylon. This large size rare animal is claimed to be the pride of the island.
By the locals it is called: elephant.







Thursday, 11 March 2010

Smells like fish, but feels like heaven...




It was hard to say good bye to the Tamil fisher folks, but our visa was running out. So we headed up to Pondicherry.













When you spend an afternoon swimming with three Tamil kids, they will drag the child out of you and you will find yourself behaving like a loco... and it feels soooo good :-)













The last ghostly remains of the British presence. Ones upon a time this was a busy railway station with trains being shipped to the Sri Lankan side. After the birth of the L.T.T.E., all contact has been cut off.














This is the end of the world (as we know it)




















A juicy piece of watermelon, a rare treat for the local kids. The diet of the villagers mainly consist of fish and rice with an occasional thin vegetable broth and some strange stone hard roots I could not identify.












When the net is all fixed and clean they get it ready for the next night. This goes on 24/7 and for the people of Deneskudi it is called life.
















Some of the byproduct of the night fishing.












They already are cleaning and fixing the nets.












And when we are still sleeping under the morning sun...














The fisher man are real tough guys. They go out to the sea every morning around 3am and fish 'till they can.












The local chai shop with the proud owner who must have been making tea for the last fifty years at this same spot the same way every day all day.













This is Deneskudi, the last little fishing village on the Tamil peninsula. A small settlement with no electricity just hot send, small huts and beautiful fisher families.












Gabri' with one of the neighbors. After a few days we became the main entertainers of the whole village. And all this with no common language to rely on.
But when you can't talk, that's when magic starts to happen.














I also got the green light to prepare some mild euro-curry for the family. The verdict was: "It looks weird, but tastes good."












Of course we also helped wherever we could. Here we are working on the family's new boat. It's gonna be the queen of the bay :-)













Well, these two just wanted to swing in Gabri's hammock all day.












And lots of helpful youngsters like this one here who's family opened their doors (well there are no doors really on these bamboo huts) to us and made us to be part of the family.











We have found a tiny little fishing village..












You are real lucky that the internet has no smell.

Lot's of dried fish by the shore.










Long corridor of the Rameshwaran temple. We got here right before Shiva-ratri, so things where still quite.












Another interesting train ride, this time to Rameshwaran. A punk-rock Mash-pit is nothing compare to this.